Our Favourites from Milan

Luxury fashion house Canali presented its first collection since the appointment of collection designer, Hyun-Wook Lee, announced earlier this year. Titled 'Lui' (Him in English) the new collection embodies the brands sartorial elegance but infused with Hyun-Wook Lee's fresh new vision with palettes ranging from pinks to muted greys.

The presentation was split into four separate rooms, each named: Equilibrium, Dynamism, Steadiness, and Inspiration. Each of these rooms showcased a different side of the season with Steadiness showcasing the rich tailoring heritage of the brand with beautiful suits in pastels and deconstructed canvas blazers. 

Inspiration evokes more leisurely attire with jersey blazers and slip on shoes, with travel accessories including bags and sunglasses. 

The latest collection by Miuccia Prada has been described as 'simple yes so good' and we have to agree, but that is definitely a good thing.

In a trike contrast to its purple lit inflatable chair showspace the looks walking down the runway were beautifully wearable but with a fashion forward twist. The first looks were menswear staples, blazers and trousers topped off with Russian style nylon quilted hats, a bit peculiar for SS but we'll take it.

Layering played a big part of the season with shirting layered over turtle necks a running theme. The most eye-catching pieces though were the ultra-short shorts; coming in interpretations including stone wash denim to 60s-inspired geometric prints the designer herself likened them akin to "like miniskirts". The small cross body bags were a personal highlight with some block colour and all over pattern incarnations. 

Man's Vanity was at the centre of the new season by Pal Zileri's Creative Director Rocco Iannone.

Vanity is often connected with narcissism and character flaw, with men often given the term but Iannone has shattered that notion, instead offering a new take on what we identify as Vanity. The collection as ever with Pal Zileri was classic with all wearable but fashion forward pieces.

Full looks and separates features in a varying muted palette including rich green, navy and burgundy. Trousers were wide and flowing and paired with smart shirting and knitwear. The backpack was the accessory of choice for the season with a number of different styles and colour ways to compliment garments. 

Plein Sport returned to Milan for its SS19 Tennis Inspired collection show as part of men's fashion week. In less than 2 years the offshoot division of the Philipp Plein brand has seen huge growth with over 40 standalone stores opening by the end of the year.

A full size tennis court surrounded by palm trees was at the centre of the co-ed show, transporting the audience to the realms of an ultra-exclusive Beverley Hills Tennis Club. The quintessential LA girl Paris Hilton took to the runway too.  Looks referenced tennis greats from McEnroe and Borg with preppy looks in green, white and navy coming in technical fabrics to provide the qualities needed for sport and for aesthetic appeal. Colour block tracksuits, polos, shorts and chinos complimented with retro feel headbands, wristbands and visors.

Florals for Spring? You got it and Neil Barret did it beautifully with his collection that turns gender conventions upside down. Barrett has a long history obsessed with the worl sof the male uniform and for SS19 he looks at sportswear, the quintessential uniform of 21st century male masculinity. Florals are seen as masculine, with patterns and graphics curated from photographic prints of anemones.

The floral print was presented in unusual ways, adorning all over on rain macs and as an application to a 'masculine' Prince of Wales check. Sportswear was also explored to deeper levels, literally with deep sea divers an inspiration from his hyper technical 'dry suits', certainly a new take on the trend that id often filled with Football and basketball references. 

Donatella Versace didn't have a sole 'inspiration' for SS19 (she says it's an easily irrelevant term) instead she opted to create a season based of emotions by different men during the creative process. The street wear hypebeast, business executive or high fashion guy also feature, at least the rebellious spirit as interpreted by Versace.

As ever with the brand it is not for the shy, these are clothes to be seen in and make a statement, to be noticed. Looks started off classic with wearable suiting, blazers paired with relaxed denim and slowly moved to Versace's love of all over print and eye catching patterns.

Ending with what seems to be a key theme of the season, neon, with outfits in bright yellow and pinks with touches of rave culture. 

Etro looked to the world of sustainable fashion for its 'Natura Manifesta' titled SS19 collection. The interactive presentation had guests walk through a maze of greenery, exploring the development of fabrics from seed to manufacturing.

In particular the collection looked at visual cultures of Southeast Asia, Africa and Japan and at different and sustainable fabrics and dying techniques, from hemp and bamboo to wax prints from West Africa. Traditional fabrics like linens, calfskin and light- organic cotton are paired alongside more sustainable ones like, with high waisted trousers made from the fibrous stalks of the nettle plant. Natural dyes have been used and many fabrics feature 'imperfections' a natural result of the weaving process.

The season could be in danger of looking 'crafty' but avoids this with elegant and beautifully presented garments, highlights of which were the kimono like styled suiting pieces, a nod to Japan. 

It was celebrations all around for the new DAKS collection, a toast to the brand's impending 125th year anniversary.

The British label has shown in Milan for a number of years but transported us to their home turf with the set up of an English Garden to stage its SS19 show. A palette of spring pink, green and oranges featured for a fresh and stylish result.

To also mark their 125 years the label debuted it's "Anniversary Check", an updated and specially created version of its famous pattern to celebrate the milestone, this new check was featured in garments in various fabric and colour way forms. Crisp white looks also featured paired with block of colours or with partnered shirting and outerwear. Bags and footwear rounded of the collection with 70s nod tinted glasses and neck scarfs and romantic floppy hats. 

Stella McCartney made a triumphant return to Milan after 4 years away to showcase her Women's Spring 2019 and Men's Spring Summer 2019 with a garden party to close Milan Men's Fashion Week.

The 35 looks were presented on models in fun summertime themed vignettes across the show space/garden that soon turned into a full out party with performances by British rapper Nadia Rose and a DJ set by Fabienne. Menswear paid a not to British traditions with a bohemian touch, fabrics as always with Stella were cruelty free with polyester and alter-nappa featuring a perforated Stella McCartney logo.

Looks were flowing and layered with flowing relaxed trousers paired with similar jackets and outerwear, the double breasted suits were a particular favourite.