Highlights from Paris

Often seen as the highlight of the fashion week schedule Paris proved to be a divisive season with two huge debuts by Virgil Abloh and Kim Jones met with mixed responses from fans and press we look at the shows that caught our eye, see you again January 2019! 

French brand KENZO once again closed fashion week with a thematic collection referencing the qualities of: "Kindness, Balance, Unity and Harmony". The co-ed show by designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon fused together the worlds of tailoring and street wear with a high energy show that included a live soundtrack by Chicago band the Hypnotic Brass Ensemble.

In addition large floral structures were suspended above the audience, moving throughout the show as a neon light display illuminated them for a rave like scene. Menswear was relaxed with collarless jackets and flowing garments in a colour block and neon palette, another nod to rave. Prints also made an appearance with all over version and more subdued pyjama like stripes in full looks and separates.

At a time when street wear seems to be taking over it's refreshing to see a designer like Paul Smith stick to what he does best, fine tailoring. Smith stands by tailoring."Suits are at the heart of the Paul Smith world and I'm very proud of that", he says. SS19 has Smith explore the archives, with a nod to the past but using techniques from today for a collection offering modern tailoring for men and women. Jacket shaped from the 1980s are revisited and updated, given exaggerated lapels and boxy silhouettes.

Smith's love for photography is also infused into the new line with his own photography being used as patterns on fabrics, with images manipulated and washed in soft pastel colours for a unique result which adorns outerwear pieces. Accessories also remained British with classic shapes including loafers and Chelsea boots and an eyewear collaboration with Cutler and Gross. 

In one of the most innovative shows on the schedule French brand Pigalle partnered up with Beats by Dr. Dre to take over the Salle Pleyel hall and stage a full on concert. The two teamed up to present Sound of Paris which merged fashion and music for a brand new take on the conventional fashion show with a live performances form Grande Ville Records' artists.

The SS19 co-ed collection and two new Beats by Dr. Dre Studio3 Wireless headphones customised by Pigalle's Stephane Ashpool to accompany the designs for the show. Looks were warn my the different artists performing and were a true ode to Paris with street wear garments with some touches of space/cosmic references were a particular highlight with glittering bombers and bold sweatshirts. 

Cerruti 1881 the diffusion line of Parisian fashion house Cerruti presented Japanese inspired SS19. Avoiding the clichés Cerruti 1881 instead opted more a more understated take on Japan, focusing more on fabrics and cuts, with particular reference to the kimono shape.

The shape of the kimono was visible on several of the elegant and effortlessly stylish looks from synched waists and boxy sleeves in a earthy palette of khaki, white and blacks. Silhouettes were flowing and fabrics light with a wrap-around black jacket a particular favourite. 

Korean fashion brand WOOYOUNGMI has seen much change of late with the appointment of its new Creative Director Katie Chung only last year. Keeping it in the family Chung took over from her mother, designer Madame Woo who launched the brand in 2002 and it has provided the brand with a fresh and new youthful direction. SS19 is a love letter to David Bowie with looks referencing the music icon's long and much celebrated career.

The casting reflected Bowie's androgynous persona with looks walking down the runway that merged vintage with the futuristic. Suits were a highlight with double breasted and high waisted versions in an array of colours and patterns worn with glittery knits and iridescent effect shirts. Bowie's glam Ziggy Stardust days are also referenced with PVC retro-futuristic garments paired with platform boots.  A beautifully romantic collection.