The Modern Family

Lana, how did you start your career? 

Before I opened VNY I worked at several other agencies. I fell into the business because I was an actress. I started to meet a lot of people from the industry, agents, photographers, stylist, models. So when I was acting, I decided to move to LA, I lived there for a while and when I came back, I wanted to set up a permanent job. I knew a lot of people from the fashion industry, so I got my first job as an agent. After working for several different agencies, I decided that I could do it better (laughing). 

With VNY you created a family. Was this intentional? 

That's what I wanted to do, I wanted to do something different than, you know, the agencies around. My agents, they are family to me, the models we work with, they are also family to me. That's really important. 

I think that that is very important for young models. Is it as important for the older ones? 

Even the old ones, believe or not, they need sometimes more attention (laughing). Sometimes I feel they need the most attention. The young ones know what to do better. 

How do you recognize a face that is going to change the industry?

I have always loved the classical models. Models that you would bring home to your parents, anybody else that has nothing to do with the fashion industry see the beauty and understand why they are models. That's always been my taste. When I see some one that I feel very strong about I have already a concept in my head which clients are going to go for them. If I meet a model and there is not such a plan in my head, then it's not going to work. 

What should a model's book look like? 

In my opinion, I think it should be very clean so that you can see what the model actually looks like. We are selling the model, not the clothes, not the make-up, not the hair, it's just about him. I think there should be movement, the model should show lots of different expresions. So I think it's just important to have nice, clean pictures with lots of movement. 

Is there a difference between developing models for different markets? Like US, European, Asian?

In America I can book a model for a campaign, even if he just has a polaroid sheet. I think in Europe they are required to have 30 sheets, the more the better. We have the top photographers that want to be the first to shoot with someone to make a carreer. They just want to see that the model as done stuff. 

What makes VNY unique? 

We are a boutique; we are the only agency in New York. We never try to take a lot of people into the agency. When we go scouting in Europe, if I find in London, Milan, Paris in the whole trip one guy that we are super, super excited about that I feel it's going to be a star, that makes my whole trip complete. I am not looking for more than that. 

Did you find someone during last season? 

We took on probably two guys last season and they are doing quite well.

What are the countries where you search for next top models? It used to be Brazil, Russia, Slovakia. What's next?

Dutch. (laughing) I think both for boys and girls, it's all about the Dutch. There is lot of top Dutch guys as well as girls, they are like the new one, they are doing everything. Dutch.

Social Media is playing a bigger part in the fashion industry. How is this affecting the industry?

Unfortunately. You know, clients are now looking at social media, the numbers of followers, likes. Those model's followers do not necessarily fit to their brand and those people are not really the people that are going to buy those $5,000 dresses. And the money market, well it's going to end.

So you don't think it will play a bigger role in the future?

I hope not. I have talked to so many people and so many clients, the creative people, and we all think, that the fashion industry is loosing its creativity, because of social media. It's boring. The real models, that should be on the covers of magazines are not on there because of social media stars. It's moving so fast, the whole industry seems to be under pressure. We hope it's going to go back to the times when fashion was fashion and not created with filters.

Where do you think the model industry will be in 10 years?

I wish I could honestly answer that question. I really don't know. It all depends on what will come, if the whole social media thing will collaps, which I really hope that it does (laughing). Also I think that the industry has been so saturated, with everyone thinking they are a model these days. I really think we need to take step back. I wish we could go back to how it was back in days even like when Gianni Versace was alive. Anything but what's happening today. 

The real top icons have been created several decades ago, nowadays it's getting so fast, one face replaces another. Do you hope that will change?

Yes, the turnaround of models is quick, three seasons and then they are gone. I hope that goes back to how it used to be because longevity is everything. We don't have super models. You can call it whatever you want, but at the end of the day, they are not really super models. 

Except Sean, who you discovered. 

Yes, yes, but he started before the industry changed to what it is right now. 

How did you start in the industry?

I was finishing my school and a friend of mine invited me to go to show with them. I didn't know what it was, didn't understand anything; I went there and it was amazing. The lights on, people yelling, the energy and everything - and I told myself, I don't know what I am going to do, but I want to be a part of this. So I asked them if they needed an intern, to find out what is this business about. But unfortunately they said no, so I sat on my computer and googled as many agencies I could find. At this time I was living in LA and somebody called me back, I came in for the interview, I think they thought I was there for an open call at that time, which was funny. They offered me a position as an intern and it moved very quickly. There was a lot of movement and change at the agency where I was at and after a couple of months they offered me a full-time position. From then on, I went from an assistant to junior booker to agent to having to make a move from LA to New York and here we are now.

Do you scout only male models?

Yes, but when I scout and see a beautiful face of a girl or a guy, I am happy to manage them. 

Is there a big difference between scouting / managing male and female models?

Obviously male models are much easier to be able to scout. Classically, a handsome guy you can see from mile away, the height and everything. Fortunately, guys aren't running around in high heels and make up, so it's easier to spot a good face. It's funny to watch guys when they start doing the business to when they start working, it changes their style, everything.

How do you recognize that this face might be very popular?

I guess it is very open to the opinion of everyone. There are some models that I don't necessarily think they are classically handsome, that I would necessarily take a liking to, but clearly some of them have been in this business a very long time. There are a lot of guys that could be amazing models but, unfortunately, after one season they are gone. It's kind of hard, but the look in itself is a big factor and the personality and professionalism, just being a nice person to people around you matters.
 
You are from California, and have been living in New York for ten years. How is working for a model agency in LA different from New York? Are there any model stereotypes?

In the past, Los Angeles was considered to be a very commercial market. When I worked I had seen these models, they had an amazing run and then they wanted to kind of settle down and get off all these commercial clients and hang it up. But now, more and more major designers are moving their shows to LA. It is also a beautiful place to shoot. Lots of shows, I think it is a big movement, is going there now. People like to compare New York and LA, but they are each different for their amazing quality of life. It just really depends on what are you looking for. 

When I was interviewing your models, they said coming to New York, to VNY, it's like coming home, back to family. 

Yes, we like to keep it that way. When the guys come from abroad, and they first come here, I say, 'Hey listen, make sure you have all our numbers. Anything happens, you fall on a bike, you are sick, you are anything - we are your family when you're not at home, this is your family.' We hope we are treated as such, because we will. We put there a lot of time and energy because we care and we want to have a long-standing relationship with these boys and girls. That is really important that they know we keep it that way. Fortunately, we are a boutique agency, small enough to be able to know where everyone is, what everyone is doing to get them there on time and it's nice to be able to do that. It's cool because it feels like a family environment. 

A boutique agency, you have mentioned this already several times. What makes a boutique agency different from other modeling agencies?

It is just what it sounds like. We don't have everything, because we pick very specific models. When clients think about VNY, they know what kind of guy they are going to expect to recieve. I think Lana has done an amazing job of having a really special aesthetic for the agency, and to all of us it is very important that it stays like that. With all the changes in this business, social media and everything, we still keep it as VNY. 

How is social media shaping the modeling business?

I mean it's changing a lot. Sometimes it makes it difficult to scout because you don't know what are you looking for. Am I scrolling down on an Instagram just looking for numbers, how many followers and is that really important to us? Obviously the social media stars are changing the industry a lot, I have seen kids, I would never ever thought walking for on runways, doing shows. I hope that it translates to whatever the brand thinks it should translate to, I hope that it does. I honestly miss the days when it was simply about great pictures, great personalities and less than about the number of followers. 

Where do you see the future of modeling?

I think it's hard to say, it's constantly changing, it's like an evolution. Also the fashion is going to "buy instantly" and what I hope this will work for retails, that's great. But I hope that doesn't translate to modeling. I hope it doesn't take away from longevity in these boys and girls careers to be able to have a long a career like they would be able to have. I think a lot of those faces, you have an amazing season and then it's a new kid - you had an amazing season. It's going so fast.

We were talking about the super models with Lana that the point of view has changed over the past years. How do you feel about this?

Yes, there are different kinds of super models - it's social media stars, slash models, slash whatever. It changes over so quickly, I hope it goes back. I just think social media has become such an important part, that it won't go away anytime soon. I feel I have to brush up and take it faster on Instagram - instantly. (laughing).