"Concepts are the Core"

Mr. Pompilio, what are your associations with the word „versus“?

A contraposition of opposites, although not necessarily in an antagonistic way. Oppositions can be harmonious too. Symmetry is born from perfectly balanced oppositions. 

Does the theme versus also reflect in your collections? If yes, how?

For Canali I am always strike a balance between sophistication and relaxation, luxury and elegace, tradition and innovation. These concepts are at the core of the Canali collections. 

Versus represents two sides in a rival relationship… Did you ever witness this kind of two parts within the work as a designer? For example ‘being artistic’ but at the same time ‘commercial/sellable’. Which part is the stronger one in your personality?

I think that that observation has more significance for women’s fashion. Men’s fashion is less about shocking new shapes or proportions or materials, it is about details, subtle evolutions in form, in fabric in colour – these are the things that make the difference in menswear. If you design with your customer in mind, your creations are inherently ‘commercial’, but this does not make them any less creative – anzi!

What are the main differences between Canali and Andrea Pompilio (the brand)? Is it difficult to produce two very different collections each season? And what is the challenge to work for a traditional brand like Canali?

My work for Canali is very distinct from the vision I have for my own label. Each has their own distinct target and therefore a different style. For Canali I focus on a sense of style that is relaxed, yet rich in detail. For Canali I work with an amazing team so there are a lot of ideas bouncing around between us. We have a clear brief, the materials we choose, the craftsmen we work with all take the Canali collections in a direction all of their own

What is our impression of young people nowadays compared to the time when you were 16/17? Do young people nowadays dare less to dress themselves in a unique and concerned way? Or do they dare even more? And why do you think is that so?

Dress rules of the past have changed, and we now have an unprecedented freedom to mix formal and informal styles - tuxedos and sneakers, coats in Casentino cut t-shirts. Hiking boots with elegant trousers in silk/wool blend. Knowing how to mix is the new measure of elegance.

How would you describe the evolution of the Fashion-Business, with some clients only considering models if they got at least 10k Followers on Instagram? Isn’t a part of Fashion setting trends (with models who embody the collections style) and not just follow the masses (by taking a instagram-stars)? What are your thoughts about the „social-media-evolution“?

The importance of social media to the fashion industry is ever increasing, just as these things acquire more and more importance in our lives generally. For a brand like Canali, social media is a way of staying close to our clients, and giving us a new insight into their lifestyles and tastes, likewise it allows our clients a ‘backstage’ glimpse into the craftsmanship and passion that come together in our product. 

Just a quick look in the future… 5 years later… where will the Fashion-Business be and where do you wanna be?

I love what I do, it drives me. I am excited about the future of Andrea Pompilio, and with Canali, I love working with a brand that has been going for over 80 years, and I would love to be a part of the future, to be remembered as someone who worked respectfully with tradition and was part of the evolution of a prestigious brand